Excerpts
from the author:
Britain
During my travels, I was a perpetual tourist with a chameleon streak and I
often wanted to find out how easy or difficult it would be for me to blend
into the
various countries I visited. While living in London, I easily existed as an
anonymous entity in the bustling metropolis. Throughout most of my travels,
I wore my hair in a bun giving myself a nondescript look and I was sometimes
mistaken as Latin American in Britain. A French friend of mine at Cambridge
University spread a short-lived rumor that I was Mexican-American. On another
occasion, a restaurateur automatically ushered me over to a party of Spanish-speaking
women and then informed me he made the mistake because I “just looked
like them.” Yet, Caribbean students at Cambridge continuously asked me
what island I was from and said that I looked and sounded West Indian, my American
accent rationalized as a consequence of a U.S. education.
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Kenya
For many, Kenya is Africa’s
leading wildlife destination, offered the exotic images of photogenic animals,
vast savannah grasslands, and, for some, picturesque Masai people. While
I could understand the allure of gaping at wildlife, I was disturbed
that some African
game parks seemed to include African people as part of the game. After days
of spotting elephants, giraffes, lions, and zebras in the countryside,
tourists
on European and American package holidays were often ferried through preselected
villages to see “authentic” Africa. With thousands of tourists
treading through their backyards each year, many Kenyans have attempted to
turn the situation
to their advantage by requesting a gift or a small amount of money in exchange
for a photographic image, much to the dismay of some tourists. I laughed
softly when I read a question in a Kenyan tour book which asked tourists, “How
would you feel if an endless succession of minibuses arrived at your doorstep
to photograph your family?” Then it occurred to me that they could be photographing my Kenyan family.
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Zimbabwe
Each society lives within its own customized racial twilight zone. Am
I about to enter another? “Colored” in the United States
does not mean the same as “coloured” in Zimbabwe. The archaic
American term refers to anyone with African ancestry whereas the modern-day
southern African term refers to a category of people with mixed racial
heritage, usually of African and European ancestry. In the United States,
light- and dark-skinned people of any African ancestry are considered “black” under
the one-drop rule. Yet I am sitting on the border of a country where
those two groups –“coloured” and “black”– are
seen as separate racial entities. Zimbabwe has its own unique one-drop
rule – “One drop of white blood makes you coloured.” I
have read that 75 to 90% of African-Americans have many “drops” of
European ancestry. Would they be considered “coloured” or “black” in
Zimbabwe?
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Jamaica
After a couple of hours of reading in the sun, I became thirsty and decided
to get a cold drink. I walked to the local supermarket where a Rastafarian
man
greeted me by tipping his imaginary hat and addressing me as “Princess
Brown.” I returned the tipped hat gesture and continued on my way thinking
about his reference to my skin color. As I walked home, a group of construction
men attempted to catch my attention by calling me “browning” and
inviting me over to talk. I later found out that “browning” was
a term coined by a popular reggae song where the artist lists all the things
he aspires to possess – a nice car, money, and a “browning,” referring
to a woman of light brown complexion. This brazen reference to skin color was
somewhat surprising to me as an American mainly because I was not used to such
public remarks about skin shade. Just a few days earlier, I had been in Zimbabwe
where my brown skin was frequently noticed but infrequently commented upon
and where I was considered to be part of a marginalized minority “race,” often
seen in a negative light. Yet, in Jamaica, I was now receiving positive comments
regarding exactly same skin color. In Britain, Kenya, and Zimbabwe, I found
that I often had to pay close attention to pick up racial nuances. In Jamaica,
thoughts and feelings about race and color were unabashedly exhibited.
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